May 5, 2009

I've been a hold out. . .

Kim has moved on from the Shalom, and I've left you sitting and most of you have forgotten me. . .here's the post I had saved as a draft, I'll get my camera out and take a picture of the finished sweater later this month. Not that Kim is all to blame, but she's who got me working on this sweater and completing the math in the first place!

Time for Math
Usually, I leave the teaching of math to my Aunt--she's really the best math teacher I know, and considering I'm a high school teacher, that says something.

The original Shalom Cardigan has a 5 ridge garter stitch edging. To achieve a 25" circumference at 4 st/in I'll need to cast on 100 stitches and work rows 1-7 as written. (Neckline measurement x stitches per inch = cast on number)

Eventually, I'll need to increase my stitches to my largest measurement (arms and bust, for me that's 55"). That means I'll need to work to 55 x 4 or 220 stitches. These increases will happen at three places in my knitting, with the largest increase first, and more gradual increases as the yoke grows. In the original pattern, the approximate ratios are to increase about 40%, 30%, 30% in row 8, 20 and 32 respectively.

For most people, using the twisted rib called for in the pattern, these row numbers will work out just fine. If you have a particularly low bustline, or are tall, you may want to adjust this. To determine what row numbers you'll use to increase, you'll take your bodice length x rows per inch = total # of rows in the bodice. Subtract the garter edge (7 rows) and divide by 3 for the triple bodice. Here's what that looks like for me:

9" x 4 rows per inch = 36 - 7 garter rows = 29 /3 = 10 ish rows between increases.

To find your stitch numbers to increase:
Largest # of stitches - Cast on stitches = Total increased stitches
Total increased stitches x .40 (for 40% or .30 for 30%) = how many stitches to increase

Depending on the pattern you're using in the yoke, you may need to add or subtract a couple of stitches to match your pattern repeat. In the Shalom Cardigan, it is a 1x1 twisted rib pattern, so you'd only need to add or subtract a stitch or two to keep on track. Should you want to add your own touch to the pattern, you'll need some more cipherin'.

I'll be using an 8 stich +2 repeat. . .increasing 48 stitches, 40 stitches and 32 stitches in my three repeats.

If you're using a lace pattern, don't forget to subtract 5 stitches on each side for the garter edge that you want to include!

The lace pattern I'm using is a 12 row repeat, and I'm tall. . .and honestly? I don't care about stopping the lace EXACTLY at my fullest bust point. Here's what I'm planning to knit:

Cast on 100 stitches
Work rows 1-7 as written
Increase to 148 stitches
Work rows 1-12 of my lace pattern
Knit 1 row
Increase to 188 stitches
Knit 1 row
Work rows 1-12 of my lace pattern
Knit 1 row
Increase to 220 stitches
Knit 1 row
Work rows 1-12 of my lace pattern
Knit 1 row

When I get close to the end of this section, I'll want to start trying on the sweater to make sure my armpits aren't too low. . .I'll post a picture when I get there! Drop me a note when you get there too!

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Thanks for reading, I'm eager to read what you have to say in response. Your comments help me feel that I'm not writing into a void. . .keep them coming!